Mar
13
WALL PLATE TO CONCRETE THE START TO BUILDING BASEMENT WALLS
By
BOB SCHMIDT SHOWS YOU HOW TO ANCHOR WOOD WALL PLATES TO CONCRETE DURING YOUR BASEMENT REMODELING RENOVATION PROJECT.

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25 Comments
March 13th, 2010 at 6:08 am
@Rechkalov7 ha…been cheating that way meself for years.Really works well funny enough.
March 13th, 2010 at 6:26 am
Where do you get those split-drive’s Bob, Menards doesn’t have a clue what they are…
My concrete is so dang hard, the 16-penny sinker nail method isn’t working at all for me…
March 13th, 2010 at 6:41 am
if its not broken dont fix and if your friend have water probleme then the insurrance will do it so …why spend money to fix something that aint broken now? and he will save money from insurrance IF water damage!
March 13th, 2010 at 7:15 am
You could also drill 1/4 inch hole in the concrete and put 2 nails stick together it’s as hard as using these nails.
March 13th, 2010 at 7:21 am
awesome
March 13th, 2010 at 8:07 am
Thanks for the video.
March 13th, 2010 at 8:19 am
Great video! Seems like a good alternative to a powder actuated fastener.
March 13th, 2010 at 9:00 am
I love the video and you showed all of us who have never done this before how to do it properly. There will be times when I will have to do just that when working with walls.
March 13th, 2010 at 9:21 am
hello,
im in the process of making a few walls for my 100k home gym.
is the distance between the studs 16.5, and do we need a vapour barrier under the plate or should i use treated lumber for the floor piece. i saw one guy using no nails just glue for the floor plate? is that enough,.. and no it is not a supporting wall. length is 12 feet,..hieght is 9 feet.
thanks.
March 13th, 2010 at 10:18 am
I have found all your videos to be excellent help with my projects. Thanks very much for posting this stuff.
Paul
March 13th, 2010 at 10:53 am
No not really, a couple less tools to drive in versus screw,maybe a little faster. Even when I show one way I use definitely does not mean there are’nt equally appropriate ways of doing same thing,just trying to show an option. Thanks for watching+++Bob
March 13th, 2010 at 11:31 am
Is there a reason not to use Tapcons? The 1/4″ are very strong. They still require a drill as does this, but if you do need to remove them for any reason they can be unscrewed. They are also rated fine for treated wood.
March 13th, 2010 at 11:41 am
If it were open already and not weight bearing I would cut out and replace plate,but as I said I would not open anything that did’nt have to be opened just to replace plates+++Bob
March 13th, 2010 at 12:35 pm
Hmmm… not a problem yet! but he figures while it’s open what are some of the ways to improve something that could cause issues. So any spray foams, gaskets, sheet metal etc. that is known in the industry for such occassions. He’s willing to hire the right professional as he wants to improve what’s there already
Thanks for your input… much appreciated! BTW, he is quite crafty with his collection of tools but not sure what’s involved.
March 13th, 2010 at 12:56 pm
If you have the tools,some basic skills,and a willingness to learn and work thru possible problems,I say go for it! If you have a friend or a friend of a friend that works as a carpenter you could ask questions of that comes in handy as a resource, If there are any questions I can help with leave a message on my channel+++Bob
March 13th, 2010 at 12:59 pm
WHOAAAA! A treated plate is recommended for use on bottom plates. If there is not a water issue in basement then removing bottom plates would be OVERKILL. An old phrase comes to mind”If it aint broke don’t fix it” When doing any new or repair work then treated.The only way I would tear out existing structure is if there was a safety issue,I cannot believe this fits that criteria, yes mold only if water condition exist, and then I would only fix water issue and replace affected wood only+++Bob
March 13th, 2010 at 1:16 pm
Hey Bob, question for you. A buddy of mine discovered that the his finished basement has untreated bottom plates when he opened up a section of his finished basement wall. He’s now got concerns to treat this wood so that it doesn’t rot. Any ideas or pointers that you may be able to share? He’s afraid that this was done throughout the finished basement walls and wanted to minimize the time/cost of ripping the walls out. Can he just cut the bottom portion of the walls and treat this wood?
March 13th, 2010 at 1:30 pm
Thanks Bob….you saved me some heartache… getting ready to frame basement and your videos have helped already. Keep up the good work
March 13th, 2010 at 2:21 pm
This is great! I have been wanting to remodel my basement, but my family recommended that we pay a professional to do it to “make sure it gets done right.” But these videos are making me reconsider… I may do this myself! Thanks!
March 13th, 2010 at 3:02 pm
thats a very good product, i would only add 1/4 by 1″ stainless washers in areas that are hurrican prone making it harder for the bottom plate to be snatched up during cat 4 or 5 hurrican type winds, besides they dont cost that much anyhow. Good tip thanks
March 13th, 2010 at 3:12 pm
Thank you very much+++Bob
March 13th, 2010 at 3:53 pm
thanks Bob for this instructional vid, superb.
March 13th, 2010 at 4:01 pm
Great stuff Bob! I really appreciate the tips and information you have put up. Big thumbs up!
March 13th, 2010 at 4:24 pm
outstanding bob, did’nt know bout the concrete nails, was gonna use masonry screws on home project. thanks
March 13th, 2010 at 4:47 pm
measure your wall top to bottom… now subtract 3″ for the top and bottom plates… cut would to whatever that size is.
a 2″ x 4″ is 1.5″ thick… because of this, you need to subtract .75″ to get 16″ on center… so line up your first stud, your next stud should be places 15.25 (1/4)” from there and so on and so on… hope this helps